Kai Tak... then & now

This summer Hong Kong’s old Kai Tak International Airport location will once again be a major destination for travelers visiting Hong Kong.  This June a Paris based company, World Wide Flight Services, is opening a new cruise terminal, Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, on what once was known as the world famous Runway 13. 

Today cruisers dock at Ocean Terminal in Victoria Harbour, the southwest edge of Kowloon Peninsula.  It’s a superb location, within walking distance to world class luxury shopping, restaurants, museums, markets, parks, the cities subway system (Metro Transit Railway) and the renowned Star Ferry.  Not to mention the historic Peninsula Hotel, where you can still enjoy a taste of the old British colonial era with afternoon tea.

The new terminal, Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, isn’t exactly in the best neighborhood and definitely not the first impression Hong Kong people want travelers to have of their amazing city.  However, even though the new terminal will be less conveniently located to the Star Ferry and MTR rails to Hong Kong Island and other classic historic tourist attractions, there are plans for an extensive urban renewal project that should make the new terminal location more enjoyable in the near future.   

           

New terminal location:

            25 miles to Hong Kong International Airport

            6 miles to the nearest Airport Express train station

            4 miles to Star Ferry

Interesting Facts:

What was once regarded as the most spectacular and world-famous runway of all times, Runway 13 at Kai Tak was closed in 1998 when the Hong Kong International Airport was relocated to the north side of Lantau Island, just northwest of Hong Kong Island.  The plan to move the airport was announced in October 1989, by Hong Kong’s Governor Wilson, and it was perceived to be part of the British government’s efforts to reinstate confidence for Hong Kong people after the Tiananmen Square Massacre that took place earlier that year in Beijing by the Chinese government.  Actual construction of the new airport started in 1991, with a budget of US$20 billion.  Construction of the new airport was the most expensive airport project ever, according to Guinness World Records, and was voted as one of the Top 10 Construction Achievements of the 20^th Century. 

It wouldn't be Hong Kong without, of coarse, a shopping mall attached!  From Zara to Burberry, Hong Kong International Airport has you covered.  

As for that “world-famous and spectacular” landing, the old airport was situated adjacent to numerous skyscrapers and mountains to its north and the one and only runway jetted out into Victoria Harbour.  The old airport was ranked by the History Channel program Most Extreme Airports the 6^th most dangerous airport in the world.  As planes approached the runway, pilots had to make a 47 degree right turn to line up with the runway.  The turn had to take place just two miles from touchdown, at a height of less than 400 feet above ground (BTW within those 400 feet were 6 story buildings).  Once touchdown was made, pilots had to quickly stop the plane before falling in the harbour.  Brown pants were required for all flights!!

Ken Side Note:
My new office is attached to Ocean Terminal and Harbour City Mall (the largest luxury shopping mall in Hong Kong).  Being that Harbour City is on the Kowloon side, it’s an easy destination for mainland China tourist to enjoy tax-free shopping.  As I watch anywhere from 3,000 to 6,000 cruise ship passengers take over my lunch spots and try and maneuver their way through the overcrowded corridors and sidewalks of mainland China shoppers, I sometimes feel compelled to yell out to the cruisers that they have not experienced Hong Kong or interacted with Hong Kong people until they reach Hong Kong Island!!  Just saying!

Texas State Fair in Hong Kong?

It’s happened.  

The day I thought would never come.  

I’m gaining weight in Hong Kong people!!  Despite the long daily walking commutes to and from… everywhere, my pants are beginning to get tight.  But only when buttoned.  

As for fast food in Hong Kong, we only have McDonald's and KFC (I know, I know- if I can only have two, those are pretty good options), but I rarely go to them.  For starters, they’re not convenient and when you do find one the distance from the street sign to the actual counter involves a few dozen steep stairs leading down to a basement. (BTW- Have I mentioned I can't eat without a window nearby? Yeah… I know.)

So, without fast food windows how am I gaining weight?  Well, it could be this...

The little Hong Kong tea cafe I was at calls it French toast (I think- I didn’t order it myself), but after further research I learned some places call it western toast.  I call it HOT! (Heaven On Toast)  It’s made by deep-frying stacked bread dipped in beaten eggs and soy sauce, topped with a slab of real butter and golden maple syrup.  The best part… wait for it… wait for it… between the stacked bread is a thick spread of peanut butter!!!!!  I don't normally dance in public, but...  I have never seen maple syrup served anywhere in Asia before, so when I first saw my plate and smelled the sweet smell of maple I was shocked.  And even more shocking, the waitress (my new best friend) brought a little craft of syrup and placed it next to my plate!  I'll admit, my Saturday was MADE at that moment, but when I cut into my heavenly toast and discovered warm peanut butter too, well, I almost had to go outside for fresh air or hug my new best friend…    

BUT I HAD SYRUP AND PEANUT BUTTER AND FRIED ON MY PLATE!!  

I wasn’t going anywhere!  The only thing I said after that was, “please order milk!”

After my discovery of this dish, I was telling a friend about HOT and he said it’s ashamed I can’t order it myself (it’s all Cantonese at those kinds of places), but before the sadness completely overcame me, I realized I took a picture of it with my phone!!  That’s right, I have it on my phone!!  I HAVE IT ON MY PHONE!!!!!! 

All I have to do is show the picture to the waitress and I get HOT!  Deep Fried Peanut Butter Sandwich (BTW- best five word combination ever!!)

Eat your heart out Texas State Fair! 

Hong Kong Derby Day!

I grew up around horses and have always loved them, but as a kid I didn’t particularly like caring for them.  Having to clean out their stalls, feed, hay and water them wasn’t exactly what I called fun.  But as an adult I have learned with all that work comes a great trade off, the joy of saddling up and spending the afternoon riding.

Living in this concrete jungle, I don’t get many opportunities to enjoy an afternoon with horses, much less riding.  Last summer I came very close to riding down one of the hillsides on the Kowloon side and along the oceanfront, but after weeks of coordinating the big day, I finally gave up.  After dozens of emails with the riding club, I was finally able to prove to the club that I could handle riding solo, and not have to “follow the leader”.  But after adding up the cost associated with buying the mandatory English riding boots, riding pants, and a helmet (all not cheap!), I kind of lost the image of myself galloping through a field down to a sandy beach, all while wearing shorts and flip-flops!  The thought of having to wear leather boots up to my knees, nylon stretch pants and a heavy helmet all day in the hottest place on earth… well, I finally backed out of the “English” experience in this tropical climate.  But after yesterday, I may need to look into other “less stuffy” riding clubs. 

Yesterday I went to my first horse race in Hong Kong, and I hope not my last.  A group of my friends and I attended the BMW Hong Kong Derby last weekend in Shatin.  The BMW Hong Kong Derby is one of the most prestigious races, the most historic- dating back to 1873 and the most lucrative at HK$16 million dollars!  The BMW Hong Kong Derby is the battleground for the top four-year-old horse.   Most horses only race for 1-2 years, then retire.  Although racing can bring great earnings, the real money is made in stud fees once the horse retires.

Horse racing is huge in Hong Kong with two race courses to support the ever popular sport.  Happy Valley Race Course is on the island and races are held on week nights, and then there is the Shatin Race Course on the Kowloon side in Shatin, New Territories (very close to the China boarder), where races are held on weekends.  

Shatin Race Coarse

Happy Valley Race Coarse
 (on the island surrounded by city buildings)

Happy Valley

We were guests of a friend whose father and uncle owned one of the horses, so we had VIP access to everything.   The first race started around 12:30 and one followed every thirty minutes with a total of 10 races.  Once we arrived and obtained our coveted VIP pass, we headed straight to our viewing room where we were greeted by a huge buffet and all the wine one could drink!  After lunch, we had afternoon tea (Hong Kong style, which I love!) and afternoon tea snacks.  The day basically unfolded like this… eat for 10 minutes, go outside to watch the next batch of horses walk around for observation, go inside to place your bet, find something else to eat for 10 minutes, go outside to watch your horse lose, then back inside to eat again.  Repeat 10 times! 

I placed bets for all but one race, and only won once.  For race #6 I finally thought, with the help of a few glasses of wine, I had the odds figured out.  I placed a winning bet on every horse (10 horses total), except for the three that had the worst odds.  I went outside thinking I was surely going to win something.  But, somehow one of the bottom three horses won!  I was a little pissed.  Later in the afternoon, I finally placed a bet as the paper suggested and guess what??  I won!  I even won bills!!  I say this because one of my friend’s winnings didn’t add up to actual paper currency, only coin.  LOL 

When it came time for our horse to race (kind of ours… wink, wink) we got to go downstairs through the celebrity area and walk past the paparazzi to the inner circle that the horses walked around prior to their race.  The inner circle would fill up with celebrity friends of the horse owners along with trainers, investors and well… us of coarse!

Check out these pictures.  We had a great time and only hope we get invited again!

This was the race I placed my biggest bet on to win or place ... with horse #11.
Thank God we had an endless supply of Haagen Dazs inside.

My friends and I as we watch the horses before the race in the inner circle.

Our friend's horse right before the race.

The owner and jokey of our friend's horse speaking to the press in the inner circle, right before the race.  

  

Celine Dion singing MANDARIN?!?

This last Chinese New Years, I was in the states on a business trip.  However, even before I returned home I had heard about this shocking performance that took place in Beijing on the eve of Chinese New Year.  To the watchful eye of more than 1 billion viewers across Asia, up from beneath the stage came the surprise performance of the year!  What has only been described as flawless Mandarin, Celine paid close attention to every detail... even in a shake like dress (it is the year of the snake, after all).  I’d like to know what this gig paid, but we’ll NEVER know!  

Gong Hei Fat Choi!!

Of all Chinese holidays, nothing compares to the celebration of the Lunar New Year. Also known as Spring Festival or more commonly referred to as Chinese New Year, it’s the most traditional, significant and longest of all Hong Kong public holidays.  Traditionally, the CNY holiday starts on the first day of the first month of the Chinese calendar and ends on the 15^th day.  You heard me, 15 days!  In fact, many of the factories I work with in China give their employees one month off, starting 15 days before the 1^st day of the lunar year and ending on the 15^th day.  CNY is celebrated in Hong Kong, Macau, Indonesia, South Korea, Taiwan, Vietnam, China, Singapore and Malaysia.  I have been told Singapore and Malaysia celebrate CNY like no other, which is ironic as they only get two days off, where the other countries get at least 4 days off.  As for Hong Kong city’s decorations, CNY comes second only to Christmas.  BTW- Hongkongese know how to celebrate Christmas!  As soon as the Christmas trees and garlands are pulled down, up go the red lanterns and cherry trees. 

The lobby to my apartment building

Orange Bushes (replicates the look to gold coins growing on trees)

CNY decoration street stand in Central

Outside of my apartment building

I think is goes without saying that many Asians are extremely superstitious.  But, I was surprised to learn how much a roll it plays in the CNY’s celebrations and traditions.  For example, I knew the color red represents life, wealth and energy, but the color red is also believed to ward off bad spirits.  Many believe hundreds of years ago there was a fearless man-eating beast, known as Nian, which brought terror to every New Years Eve.  It is believed Nian is scared of loud noises, such as banging drums, and the color red.  I remember one evening while living in Causeway Bay, there was this awful sound coming from the street outside.  I went to the balcony to find a huge red dragon dancing to the sound of loud drummers at a new store opening ceremony.  The drumming was absolutely horrific- ear piercing!  I couldn’t believe anyone found that tolerable, much less enjoyable, but it drew quite the crowd.  I now understand no one was actually enjoying the dancing dragon or loud drums- it’s just a ritual practiced in hope to ward off bad spirits. 

On the eve of CNY, families gather at home and celebrate with a home cooked meal, known as Chuxi (meaning “Eve of the Passing Year”).  The meal normally consists of "Lucky" foods like noodles which represent long life and springs rolls symbolize wealth.  Some foods are considered lucky for the the way the Chinese word sounds.  For example, lettuce sounds like rising fortune, so it is common to serve lucky foods in lettuce wraps.  Tangerine and orange sounds similar to luck and wealth.  Some foods are popular for their symbolic value.  The fish served whole, with head and tail attached, symbolizes a good beginning and ending for the coming year.

Most Asian countries celebrate Lunar New Year, but only Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan and China partake in the tradition of the red packets, also called red envelopes.  Typically on the first day of the new year, children will greet their parents and grandparents with wishes for a healthy and prosperous new year.  Afterwards the children receive cash in red envelopes.  I know- 15 day celebration and money?!?!  

Here are the rules

• Don’t get married or employee staff!
• If you are married, couples give packets to unmarried members of the family, and to unmarried coworkers and friends.  FINALLY a holiday for single people!!
• If you have employees or manage people that report directly to you, it is expected that you provide red packets to each person.

As for the money inside the red packets-

• No coin, only cash!
• The total enclosed should NOT be a number including 4, like 40 or 400.  Why you might ask?  The pronunciation of 4 is almost the same pronunciation as death, which makes the #4 bad luck.
• The total should be a multiple of 8 (8 is a symbol of wealth and good fortune).  So try and give 80, 800, or 880… all are good luck numbers.
• For people you do not have a close relationship with, a $20 dollar bill is acceptable.

Last year was my first year to experience this tradition and I have to say I scored!  I found it very beneficial to keep my office door open and just sit back and watch the red envelopes flow in.  I made around $4,000 (HKD).  And because I’m not married, I only had to give to my staff and people that do things for me, like my house keeper, doormen, dry cleaners, hair dresser, my Starbucks barrister, etc.  Last CNY I was invited to a wedding and received a red envelop inside the innovation.  I was like, “you’re giving me cash to buy your wedding gift??”  However, when I arrived at the wedding I got the impression I was expected to also provide a packet to the Bride.  So, basically the whole red packet tradition is a lot of re-gifting. 

As for how to present the packets you should only be holding the one red packet for that one person.  Present with both hands holding the tips of each corner (same presentation as handing someone your business card).  As the recipient takes the packet, also using both hands, both you and the receipt say “Gong Hei Fat Choi”.  Never make the mistake of simply saying thank you.  The whole red packet thing is a little intimating the first time (knowing it isn’t an equal exchange of packets- meaning just because I receive one from someone does not mean I should reciprocate the gift), but it also provide good energy in the office and around the city.  People become nicer, knowing it may increase their packet amount, but giving and receiving any amount is fun.