Ken ... according to Hong Kong

Well, I did it.  I made a year in Hong Kong!!!!  Of all my years, this past year has been the most intense one of my life.  A few months ago I came across this quote on Pinterest,  "You never know how strong you are until being strong is the only choice you have".  I'm not sure who the author is, but I couldn't agree more. 


It was not easy getting used to all the changes.  Not only did every part of my life change this year, but to my surprise I changed too.   I now think, see and feel about things differently than I did last November 17^th.  I am learning, that for every action I do there is an equal and opposite reaction to be received.  In other words, the energy I put out in the world will eventually come back to me.  As a child, I learned in Sunday school to treat others as I wanted to be treated.  I now understand everything I'm dealing with is because of a choice I made along the way.  I said something, did something, selected something, and/or made a turn that brought me to this place in life.  I am now on the path to owning my life, my individual life.  But that isn't easy.

I’ll be honest, I spent countless nights looking out the window at 2:00AM not asking why am I here?, but what brought me here?  Here meaning this place in life- not necessarily Hong Kong. 

This is the view from my dining room ... at 2:00AM

Along with the challenges, I’ve also had some amazing experiences.  I've traveled, met people, learned a new way of living, made new friendships, strengthen existing friendships, learned things about my body and health that I always questioned.

Hands down the hardest challenge of this year has been coping with the loss of my pets.  I made this move without them, and it's been harder than I ever could’ve imagined.  Prior to moving I didn't know what my lifestyle would be like in Hong Kong.  I couldn't bring myself to transferring my pets to Hong Kong only to find their life confined to a small flat with a domestic helper caring for them.  They deserved better than that and it helps knowing they're in a good home filled with love and attention, but a day doesn't go by where I don't think of them.  I should've brought them.  I failed them as a parent and miss their friendship. 


After about 6 months, I realized my travel schedule was not at all what I thought it would be and I began to allow myself to think about getting a pet again.  One day I came across two sibling Yorkshire Terriers.  They were born just five days after my birthday.  I have always had Yorkies and when I came across these two and learned they were siblings, well… I knew they were mine the minute we met.  I named them Lily and Grayson.  The life my pups have in Hong Kong is nothing like the life my pets had in the states.  In the beginning I tried to take them out daily so they could do their business, but the city isn't exactly the cleanest place for pets, especially pets that are only inches tall.  They were getting baths everyday and I felt they were a bit intimidated by all the outdoor noises, smells and speeding buses and taxis.  So they are now indoor dogs all the way!  They use pee-pads and are better trained than any pet I have ever had.  They don't always have the best aim (they feel as long as one foot is on the pad they're doing their job), but I can't complain.  It was a big learning process for all of us. 

Day 1 - May 6, 2012

Checking out their new balcony (also their BEFORE image).

Last weekend (November 2012), completely at home on
the balcony (Sporting a very smart haircut).


Lily and Grayson love to take walks on the weekends.  I occasionally take them by taxi to the Peak (tallest lookout point on the island) and we walk down to the city and taxi back home.  The walk down takes about 2.5 hours and they love every minute.  Lily had hip surgery a few months ago so she get’s carried about half way down.  I also take them to Stanley, a community on the other side of the island where you’ll find seaside cafes.  We have breakfast outdoors and take a leisure walk on some of the hiking trails along the coastline.  After an afternoon out the pups are always completely exhausted, which insures I’ll get a good nights rest!

This is Lily after surgery, but she is better than ever today!

We're at the top of the Peak about to start our first nature walk.
I didn't see any reason why I shouldn't make it more memorable
by enjoying a little Haagen Dazs before the 2.5 hour journey.
(They're cute, but not cute enough to be allowed inside Haagen Dazs!
But, when it comes to ME and ice cream, I always find a way!)

This is the view walking down from the Peak.  
If you look closely you'll see the city below. 
Discovering this trail changed my entire perspective of the city.

This is a resting place on the walking trail along the coast line near Stanley.
(Grayson is taking in the view while Lily takes in the smells.)

This is the view from the above resting place.  Breathtaking!

This is Lily's first taxi ride (leaving the groomers).  She loves to look outside.

This is Grayson's first taxi ride (I love his expression here,
it almost excuses the fact he is standing on Lily's head).


I have to say the change in my environment was also a huge adjustment for me this year.  Coming from Dallas where you are surrounded by beautiful homes and communities, it has been challenging being surrounded by only tall buildings and pavement.  I have never seen an actual house in Hong Kong, which is a little strange as all major cities have neighborhoods with houses.  We do have areas in the city that have vegetation, but those areas are further up the hill.  I was disappointed to discover the park near my current flat is completely packed on the weekends with domestic helpers (live-in house keepers).  It’s something you have to experience first hand (it's actually a tourist attraction) to truly understand fully.  Every weekend the helpers take over the sidewalks, making it extremely difficult to walk.  Even though I live just around the corner from the largest park in Hong Kong, I never think of going there to relax. 

The above images are from Victoria Park, (just around the corner from my home) but most of Hong Kong looks like this on Sundays.  The domestic helpers (mainly from the Philippines) bring food and games and spend the day socializing, laughing, napping … much like a picnic.  But instead of picnic blankets, they use card board.  They never walk on the cardboard with their shoes and sometimes will build privacy tents out of umbrellas.  One thing that fascinates me is you can always count on them having a good time and smiling.  

My life in Hong Kong is busy.  Everything takes so much time to accomplish.  I don't just jump in the car and go, my feet are now my wheels and my shoulders are now my trunk!  I have to plan out every day where each place is located, what each place consist of carrying and so forth.  For the first half of this year when it came to exploring what Hong Kong had to offer, I fell short.  If I didn't need something, I just wanted to stay home, relax and enjoy the air-con.    I was grateful to find some of my favorite TV series, but they’re all at least 3 years old!!  I love that Carrie Underwood won American Idol, but if I have to watch her be announced the winner one more time...  I’ve also discovered a few new series like "Who Owns Britain's Best Home", where each week the hosts view three homes in Britain and judge them based on decor and restoration.  I really got into this series early in the year.  There were moments I thought the styles were a little dated, both with the home decor being featured and also by what the hosts were wearing (I have to admit, I’ve never been that impressed with how Brits decorate their homes, but they're usually great dressers…).  After an entire summer of viewing, I tuned in for the last episode of the season to see who actually owns "Britain's Best Home".  As they announced the winner they said “and the winner of Who Owns Britain's Best Home for 2004 is...”  WHAT??? 2004!!!  I was pissed, but a bit relieved at the same time.  I was beginning to lose all faith in Great Britain's taste!  After a while of staying home and watching TV, I quickly learned I had to get out.


Once I finally got out and started exploring Hong Kong, I found some amazing places.  I may not visit them often, but knowing they are just a taxi ride away is sometimes all I need to know.  

The first time I visited Repulse Bay Beach, I immediately wanted to swim in the ocean.   I had nothing with me, but I was able to purchase swimmers, a bamboo mat and a beach towel all for less than US$20.  After my swim I tossed my purchases, took a shower at a nearby beach facility and went on with my day.  I'll always remember that afternoon.

My favorite way to get to the top of the Peak is by taxi (the drive is amazing),
but many tourist prefer the Tram.  Once I arrive at the Peak with the pups., I will walk down the Morning Trail to The Mid-Levels (soon to be my new neighborhood).  Without pups., I will enjoy a nice cool drink while taking in the amazing views of the city.

The "MORNING TRAIL"
  

There are several water falls to enjoy as you walk down the Morning Trail from the Peak.

The Morning Trail crosses over the top of the mountain at times, providing views of the south side (Aberdeen, shown above) as well as views of the north side of the island (Mid-levels shown below).

Shak O Beach (Southeast side of the Island).  My personal favorite!

Area around Shak O.  Top left image is Black Sheep, a wonderful place to end a day at the beach.  

Tian Tan Buddha on Lantau Island.
  Completed in 1993, this large bronze statue of a Buddha Amoghasiddhi, symbolizes the harmonious relationship between man and nature, people and religion.    

View of the Tian Tan Buddha (AKA Giant Buddha, is 112 feet tall).

Macau (only a one hour trip by ferry), is one of two special administrative regions

 of the People's Republic of China, the other being Hong Kong,
was once a former Portuguese colony until 1999.

Ruins of St. Paul's Cathedral
The cathedral was built in 1602 and destroyed by fire in 1835.
Only the southern stone facade remains today. 

Don't go to Macau to escape the crowds of Hong Kong.
This is when you safely secure your wallet in your undies and GO!

I have spent many hours and days in this little furniture shop.
When your night table can't exceed 13" in width, you go here and have one made.
 In fact, almost every piece of furniture we own is from this shop.

It's amazing what a one hour boat ride can do.  You would swear you were in a 
European country (I guess you would have been at one time).  
The European architecture and black and white cobblestones streets are simply charming.

I have always preferred to go out for lunch during the work week, but the location of my current office doesn't make that easy.  There are dozens of places I can walk to for lunch, but I can't bring myself to eating at a place where the dishes are washed (the word "washed" is used lightly) on the sidewalk in a bucket full of brown water.  Nope... I can't do that.  I tried for about a month and then I woke up one morning with some sense!  Even though it feels like I need a passport to get to my office (it’s a whole other world from Hong Kong island), it is still Hong Kong!  I now take a taxi to Tsim Sha Tsui for lunch. It's an area of Kowloon where I use to stay when I traveled here for business.  It's very touristy, but where you find tourist you also find western restaurants with electric dishwashers!   

I'm also the only westerner working in my office.  I go all day and never hear one word of English.  Also, as you can see below, HK people are pack rats!   




This is the Sales Dept. just outside my office.  Seriously.  Not only do I have to walk through this daily, so do our customers!  Just another example of cultural differences between US and Hong Kong.

Here's a look at my office.

This is my office building and surrounding neighborhood.

Everyday I pass this street vendor just outside my office.
 In the large wok they bake sweet potatoes and nuts 
(you heard me- sweet potatoes and nuts!).
They're out there everyday, even when it's 90F degrees and 99% humidity!



When I look back at some of the things I did when I first moved here, I can't help but feel sorry for that guy.  I would get my haircut, eat at restaurants, and use dry-cleaners that didn't understand one word of English!  I don't know why, I guess I thought that's the way it should be in Hong Kong.  My favorite saying by Maya Angelou is "When you know better, you do better".  It took a while, but I finally learned I could have the same standards in grocery stores, dry cleaners, hair salons and restaurants as I had in the states; I just had to know where to go.  So for me, knowing better means living better!

Oliver's in Prince's Building in Central is my favorite grocery store.   

Toni & Guy in Central is where I get my haircut, but it's a workout to get there!
From IFC or MTR, it's a steep walk up the hill.
By the time I get there I need a shower ... and a glass of Chardonnay.

CLEAN LIVING is my dry cleaners.  This is one of two ladies that has helped me over the year.  I think this is the third or fourth cleaners I've used since arriving, but this one does a great job and although they're in Causeway Bay, they do speak a little English.  They usually refuse serving me unless I have the pups with me, which is sweet.  However, most visits I just don't have enough arms to carry my clothes, sheets, blankets and pups AND fight the crowds!  They have told me no one has as much dry cleaning as I do, therefore I'm their VIP customer!  I hate walking to the cleaners but due to one-way streets, taxis are not an option.  At least I have their smiling faces to greet me once I finally get there.  Confession:  Normally how it goes down is I walk in the door, throw my huge bags on the counter and find a resting place up against the wall... cooling off and trying to recover from the crowds I just survived.

Al Dente in Soho is one of my favorites Italian places in the city
(I love the Chicken Picatta).  

This is Elgin Street in Soho.  I love these narrow streets which are filled
with great restaurants and afternoon hangouts. 

This is Staunton St. (one escalator stop down from Elgin Street).  The sidewalks in the Soho area are anywhere from 12" to 3' in width.  As a result, most people walk on the streets, except when a huge truck like this comes along.  I don't know how drivers maneuver the streets!

This is Staunton's, on the corner of the escalator and Staunton St.  You will find me here most Friday nights and Sunday afternoons.  Usually the crowd flows outward onto the sidewalk and escalator area.   Hands down favorite hangout place in Hong Kong.

TREE is a furniture store which only uses recycled or reclaimed wood.  Some day I hope to live in a building with an elevator that can accommodate furniture from here... sigh  (Interesting fact: Most furniture stores will ask for your building name before purchase to verify if your elevator is large enough for delivery.)


Getting used to living in a small space wasn't as hard as getting used to the location of that small space.  I moved to Causeway Bay (if you're from Hong Kong I know what your thinking, but I DID NOT KNOW!) a year ago and still struggle with the crowds.  When I meet expats, no matter where they're from we all agree the biggest frustration and adjustment to Hong Kong is the lack of manners.  And living in the most congested neighborhood in Hong Kong only compounds the situation.  Most locals couldn't be bothered with showing a little politeness or generosity toward others.  Many of them are like robots- they have their next destination programed as their objective and nothing comes between them and that destination.  And I mean NOTHING!

In general, minutes do not matter to me.  Waiting a minute for the elevator doors to close does not cause a moment of panic for me, taking a minute and allowing a child or elderly person get stable on the escalator before I jump on is not an issue.  I have minutes to spare every day, promise!!  But the locals are either in a mad dash to get where they're going OR they have absolutely nothing to do and walk at a snails pace.  There is no “normal” pace here.  I try to not take my frustrations out on anyone, because I can't say how I would act if for my whole life I only knew this way of living. 

Here are my top 10 frustrations with locals:

1. Walking straight ahead making no attempt to moving or even turning their shoulders to accommodate other passersby’s.
2. Stepping outside a store onto the sidewalk without looking to see if someone is coming AND then stand there while deciding where to go.
3. Darting through a crowd to get onto an escalator, giving no regard to others waiting their turn.  HATE THIS!  
4. Standing at the front of the elevator, not moving for exiting passengers, pushing the close door button the second after someone exits, all while yelling “wai, wai” on their mobile phone!!
5. Belching without any shame or need for apology … enough said.
6. Refusing to step aside to let passenger get off the MTR trains. 
7. Jumping queues.
8. Suddenly stop walking in a heavy traffic area without looking over their shoulder to see if anyone is behind them.
9. Yelling on mobile phones while inside public spaces.
10. And the #1 thing that causes me to run to the nearest 7-11 to down a few cold ones before hitting the sidewalks again is ... MEANDERING!!!  People that can’t walk a straight line, making it impossible to pass!!!  


Oh, I almost forgot the umbrellas!!  Oh. My. God. Help. Me.  In America it was my experience I'd get more wet trying to close my umbrella while getting into my car rather than making a run for it.  So, I don't have a lot of experience with umbrellas.   However, unlike many locals, I do know the proper use and etiquette of an umbrella.  For many expats, this may be the biggest frustration of all.  Tip #1, if your umbrella is 3 feet wide and you’re only 4 feet tall, then you need 3 feet clearance to walk!!!!! The locals will make sudden stops and turns, sometimes even back up without taking a look around to see if it’s okay.  And it's not just a rainy day hazard, some women use umbrellas on sunny days too.  It's like they feel they have the right to carry around their own source of shade everywhere they go!  It is the craziest thing I have ever witnessed, not to mention dangerous!   Now-a-days the first thing that pops into my head on a rainy day is the fear of having my eyes poked out by the little pointing ends of an umbrella, not that my shirt may get wet!  Please... my shirt is sweaty wet within 5 minutes of walking out the front door.  

Most of my frustrations with rude people are usually when I’m smack up against them, which means most of my frustrating moments are in Causeway Bay.  One of my coping mechanisms for this year was knowing I would be moving at the end of our lease.  And guess what?  December 8th is moving day!!!  In just 22 days I will no longer have to deal with CWB!  I put in a year and I’m finally getting out.  Just 22 more days, and according to my cleaver little iPhone app, that’s 528 more hours!!

I will be leaving more than just the crowed streets of CWB.  I'll also be leaving my apartment building.  Aside from the fact I have dealt with having "mini" every things for the past year... the flat has been pretty nice.  Outside the flat is another story.  The elevators each measure 32"X32" in size.  If my mother ever made it to Asia, I know she would never make it up to my flat- it's a tiny elevator!!  And what's more surprising, I have been on the elevator with one other person (my limit) and the doors will open and people will actually try and get in!!  

There are four flats on our floor.   Behind Door A is single lady who has cats, lots of cats!  Not sure how many, but she has a pallet load of can cat food delivered monthly.  She seems nice (meaning she smiles before closing her iron gate and door), but I don’t think she speaks English or Cantonese.  There is a Guest House behind Door C.  In case you don’t know, a Guest House is basically an illegal hotel.  I personally believe cannibals run the Guest House, because when they cook it smells like death!  They normally cook with the front door open, filling the hallway with the nastiest odor you have ever smelled. Behind Door D lives a man with his mother and their domestic helper.  Sometimes I can hear them play mahjong (Chinese checkers) from my kitchen.  Just outside their door is a Buddha altar (a place to cleans the mind, ask for protection and good health.  However, some might think it’s a space where fruit is worshipped, while others may think it would make a great altar for Barbie and Ken’s wedding).  Each day the Mother places fresh fruit on the floor around the little altar, lights incense and prays.   Between the food smells (AKA dead people boiling), burning incense and cat scent, I find our hallway...  well, let’s say I will never forget my time spent in CWB. 

This is the little Buddha altar outside my flat near the elevator.  
The three cups lined up are full of water, the fruit changes daily
 and the ash tray is where she burns the incense.

This is my hallway.
The double doors access the fire escape.  After living here for two months the 
Fire Marshal said the rubbish bin, once kept in the fire escape, was a fire hazard and had to be removed.  So from that point on we have had to take the trash out to the street corner and put into the public rubbish bin. So much fun!  
(BTW- Rubbish Bin = Trash Can)  
To the left of the double doors is the Guest House and
 to the right is the Mother with her Buddha altar.

This is the Cat Lady's monthly Cat Food and Litter delivery!

My elevator (32" x 32"- which means no large pizza's)
  

On the opposite end of the hallway from the fire escape
doors is my front door (shown above on the left). 
The "Cat Lady" lives behind the gated door on the right.


Along with the daily challenges of living in a foreign country, I've also dealt with not seeing my friends or family as often as I wish, starting new relationships where there are cultural differences and sometimes language misunderstandings, a few health scares, and basically just feeling very removed from anything that represents comfort and home.  But, even with all the challenges this year presented, it's also been liberating.  I'd like to say I now know what I am made of, but I don't.  I'm still learning more about myself every day.  However, along the way I have learned who my true friends are and what I need rather than what I want.  

Exactly one year ago today, I woke up, drove my car through some of my favorite neighborhoods before dropping my car off at the car dealership, I kissed my pups good bye.  I loaded my dad's truck with all by baggage and off I went to the airport.  As I look back, I now know I didn't move from Dallas, I left.  I left Dallas and arrived in Hong Kong with a little more clothes than normal.  Despite what you may think by reading this post, I do like Hong Kong.  I always have.  But living in a city with a population of over 7 million people, life is bound to be challenging. 

Once I stopped trying to help children in school uniforms carry their 50 pound backpacks, and got used to seeing elderly women wearing flower-print blouses with plaid pants, really loud speaking old people, men in shorts with tank tops rolled up to their armpits, everyone glued to their smart phones, people blowing their noses without tissue, business men wearing three-piece suits in 90F heat, and the smell of dried seafood shops at every corner … I fell in love with Hong Kong.  It's a fascinating city.  It took a while, but I now see it as the amazing city I once saw as a traveler- a city that allows anything and makes everything possible.  I have learned how to make a life here, now it's time to live it. 

Helpful hints for new comers:

• The left side of an escalator is reserved for walking and the right side is for standing.
• Learn the metric system.
• Never forget bus drivers want to kill you (doesn't matter if you're inside or outside the bus)!
• 175 degrees Celsius is the same as 350 degrees Fahrenheit (the sooner you learn this the sooner baking will not require the help of Google).
• When ordering from the grocery store deli counter, 400 grams of cheese or meat (or anything for that matter) is a good amount.
• Using a hand basket at the grocery store is the best way to know when to stop shopping, as you have to carry everything home.
• Get an Octopus Card (linked to your bank) even if you don't plan to use the MTR or Buses.  It's a common form of payment accepted almost everywhere including Starbucks, Cafes, McDonald's and 7-11.  Simply hold your wallet near the Octopus machine and you're off... it's fantastic!
• When you finally locate those hard to find items while shopping, take a picture of the item with the store shelf label in the shot.  This will allow you to easily scroll through your photos and find just where you last purchased Tide Detergent or Grape Jelly.
• Bring cloth bags when buying groceries or you’ll be charged extra for the plastic bags (stores aren't trying to make money by charging you, it's just a way of discouraging the use of plastic bags).
• Plastic bags do not last all the way home ... just saying!
• You can’t buy movie tickets more than 3 days in advance and seats are usually sold-out within 2 days before showing (so hard to remember).  And although extremely tempting, to avoid screaming at the sight of bright orange cheesy grease all over your face in the restroom mirror, DO NOT pick up a bag of Garret's extremely cheesy popcorn which is sold just outside the Cinema at IFC mall.  Once again... I just saying!
• When approaching a taxi queue, look for a sign indicating whether those taxis are for the island or cross harbour.  
• Airport Express- every city should have this!!  Instead of arriving at the airport 2 hours before flights, simply arrive at any Airport Express Station found throughout the city (2 hours before flights), check your baggage, receive your boarding pass, then board a very nice train that takes you practically to your gate! 
• Trams (double decker rail trolleys) may appear to be free, but you must pay a fare as you exit the tram ($2.30 HKD / 0.30 USD).  
• Avoid using taxis around 4:00PM due to a shift change.
• Joe-sun – means “Good Morning”
• Um-guy – means “Thank You”
• “Yeah, Yeah, Yeah”- is a nice way to say shut up.
• 17-11-12 is the same as 11-17-12 
• 1-4- 11-12 means Nov. 1-4, 2012  
• To avoid leaking air-conditioners from above head, make sure you're completely under the overhang or awnings while walking on sidewalks.  
• Taxi drivers are allowed to talk on mobiles while driving, so take responsibility for yourself and pay attention.  
• Beware of steps!  The city has few building codes regarding public safety so beware of a single step, with no warning, in the middle of corridors.  
• Hong Kong is filled with slick slippery floors and sidewalks.  Use great caution on rainy days.
• Never go without fresh flowers or weekly massages.  Prices are too cheap not to enjoy.
• No matter how long you stand waiting in the shower, the hot water heater must be turn on first!
• Arriving anywhere with a wet sweaty shirt is perfectly normal.
• Starbucks don’t open until 8:00AM on weekdays. 
• Most grocery stores don’t open until 10:00AM.
• A Typhoon warning T8 is a very good thing!
• You must book air travel for public holiday get-a-ways 3-4 months in advance (something to do with 7 million people and only two runways).